I see why so many people complain about this amp. It's not really a problem with the amp, its the source. I started off with a regular connection to a Sony STR receiver. The LFE output from that receiver is not adjustable via settings. So, first I tried the gain on the bottom of the amp. That helped some. Output levels were nowhere near what I wanted though, so I put an active crossover (cheap little Clarion EQS746, great little units) in front of the amp for +10db. That solved the level problem completely. There is very little rolloff even down to as little as 10hz.I am driving a single MTX Thunder 7500 10" DVC (400 watts RMS) wired as 4ohm. This amp can deliver exactly what it advertises and more when wired correctly. At 96d 10hz. input, about 2VRMS, this amp will extend the driver far and hard enough for it to clap the voice coil when it returns for each cycle. Based on that cue, electrically and mechanically speaking and without getting out a heap of test equipment to prove it, the peaks are easily 500 watts. Beware of that if you are driving a small woofer. This thing goes hard.I understand many reviewers here do not believe that the amp could possibly deliver over 300 watts RMS from a 160 watt power brick. I can explain. Audio is not a constant signal. If it were, your drivers would simply stand on the end of their travel until they burned out.I can say the brick draws approximately 6 watts when unplugged from the amplifier, which is what I would expect. It's very difficult to accurately measure the draw when the amp is in use, but I was able to log and average a typical listening session out to about 50 watts/hr.It sounds great. The low end is especially impressive for something that fits in your hand. You can buy this, or the Fosi V3 for more... for a subwoofer, you won't hear any difference in quality and I doubt there is much reason to suspect one is able to drive significantly harder than another. I have both now and I cannot tell a difference other than a need for additional gain at the source.